Wheels
Alloy and steel rims for every make - filter by diameter, PCD, ET and width to match your car's exact fitment.
How to choose wheels - sizes and fitment explained
The wheels section carries both alloy rims and steel ones - new and used, factory originals and aftermarket. A wheel is a part where a mistake costs real money: no design saves a rim whose numbers do not match the car, so the choice always starts with fitment.
What R, PCD, ET and J mean
You can filter listings by all four parameters right in this section:
- R (diameter) - wheel size in inches; it has to match the tire size
- PCD - the bolt count and circle diameter, for example 5×114.3; a different PCD simply will not bolt on
- ET (offset) - the offset in millimetres; it sets how deep the wheel sits in the arch
- J - rim width in inches; the tire width has to suit it
On top of these comes the centre bore (DIA): if the wheel's bore is larger than the hub's, you will need centering rings. Your car's exact figures are on the manufacturer's sticker in the driver's door jamb and in the manual - and usually stamped on the old wheel itself.
Alloy or steel
Alloy wheels are lighter and better looking; steel ones are cheap and straighten out more easily after a hit - which is why many drivers keep a steel set for winter and bring the alloys back for the season. Both types are listed here and split cleanly with the condition filter.
Checking a used rim
On a used wheel the geometry and cracks matter most: look for welding traces, deep gouges and a deformed lip. A slight bend is fixed by rim straightening, cosmetic damage by repainting, and after mounting a tire, balancing is always due. Note that aftermarket rims often take a different type of wheel nuts than factory ones - with a conical or spherical seat.